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JOURNEYS: FEATURES
The View from Diggerland Big machines for all ages: A photo essay exploring America's first construction-themed theme park.
Will Walk for Beer On a quest for a pint at the end of the path.
Cashing Out As casinos continue to close in Atlantic City, it feels like the end of an era. I went to see what the end looked like.
Inside the Refugio Can Costa Rica's zoos really go cage-free?
The City Sleeps Mardin exists outside of time, and almost outside of Turkey. But will the Syrian conflict and UNESCO disrupt the border city's slumber?
The Way of Tea I spent a month learning the Japanese tea ceremony, only to find it was about everything but tea.
This Is Coffeeland I had never even seen a coffee tree. But during harvest season in Ethiopia – where coffee is everything – I was determined to learn to drink like a local.
Tripping Can drug tourists save the Peruvian rainforest? I went to try ayahuasca for myself.
Hair Today... Let your head shine no longer! Istanbul is on its way to becoming the world capital of hair and beard transplants.
Inside the the Régie d’Opium In French Indochina in 1925, Harry Hervey examined men in their worst role: that of an altruist.
The Lure of Hidden Treasure Reading Harry Hervey's search for lost treasure made me realize I was holding a hidden treasure of my own: Harry's writing.
Glory at the Fountain of Coca Cola Coca Cola might just be the closest thing we have to a religion that worships the idea of America — The World of Coca Cola certainly presents itself as such.
Smoke Gets in Your Eyes Notes from a town on fire.
In Memoriam The city of Berlin is many things — the country’s largest city, a hub for international culture, and, of course, the city of remembrances.
Where the Women Rule In one of the most quickly developing countries in the world, women still fight for equality. But on trains in India, there’s one place women can feel safe.
Failing to Learn Somali So I may not know all 16 ways to say a sentence in Somali, but I have learned to love with both my liver and my heart.
Beyond the Destination How I stopped hating the cruise and embraced being a citizen of the world.
"Bring a Big Knife to School" Day I bought the Somali knife for my daughter and I found a new sense of self in my foreign home.
The Power of a Stare I went to Kurudere to find something uniquely Turkish, but I ended up with something uniquely human.
The Battles of Gettysburg Today, 150 years after the original battle, Gettysburg the park faces off against Gettysburg the town.
Equine Dining In the midst of Europe’s horse meat scandal, I went to Mongolia to see horses… and to eat them.
The Larry Brown Discovery Tour Oxford, Mississippi's most famous attraction is Rowen Oak. But we didn't come here just to see where Faulkner lived...
The Little Bear On a river, there is nowhere to go. Everything you need to know about love can be found in a canoe.
Throw Caution to the Wind My free túk-túk ride turned out to be a scam... but it was worth it for the great story.
Florida's Promise From Ponce de Leon to spring breakers, travelers are ready to believe nearly anything about Florida.
Home Sweet Home Home exchanges bring more than the opportunity to travel; they bring new friends, perceptions, and a new way of life.
100 Years and Counting The Liemba has been trekking across the world’s longest lake for decades but it’s still one of the world’s most overlooked treasures.
Typists Wanted A chance discovery in India briefly becomes an obsession.
Oyster Safari Hunting for wild Belons in the North Sea.
Hunger Artist Do today's well-fed Antarctic personnel really understand the hunger of Douglas Mawson?
Riding an Elephant My trip started with a campy tourist adventure. It ended with reflection on the terror of war.
Where the Antelope Play Can a Muslim community point the way to saving Africa’s wildlife?
March Madness We've been celebrating South Pole centennials for months. Now comes the most brutal of them all.
The Wild Dogs of Istanbul Turkey has a complex, 12,000-year-old relationship with dogs.
Let's Put on an Air Disaster Drill! I was a dead body at Arnold Palmer Regional Airport. You can learn a lot about an airport by how it treats its volunteer dead bodies.
Not Pretty in Paris The Palais Garnier has no anxiety about its appearance, and yet it's beautiful. I don't get such a break.
Queen of the Highlands More than a century ago, Edith Durham fell in love with Albania — blood feuds and all. Albania today has the same power — and the same blood feuds.
A Poetic Argument With the vote just days away, we didn't have much time to find the vice president of South Sudan. But we knew our work was important to what could possibly be a new nation.
How Do You Say... It's one thing to learn foreign words; it's another to learn their true meanings.
Disappearing Acts Today, Captain Ian had a plan to kill Mugabe. Tomorrow, he'd have a boatload of tourists.
The Local to Mexico City We had no way to sleep, no place to put a bag, and a Vin Diesel movie to watch. But I wasn't about to complain.
Phantom of the Fair World's fairs have always existed to entertain the West. The Shanghai World Expo, however, has its own ideas.
Seeking Balance in Belize Placencia wants tourism, but not too much of it. Can the peninsula have it both ways?
Varna to Varna One is in Bulgaria, the other in Italy. But they speak to each other. Quietly. At night.
Feeding Ganesh I hope the Hindu god likes rice, eggs, pudding, fruit, and goat after goat after goat.
Just the Factories Factory tours are never mentioned in the same breath as national parks or museums or battlefields. And yet who can turn one down?
Postcard from Maha Shivrati When's the best time to visit India? I'd say when the Ganges offers endless blessings.
A Gated Community I worked on a death penalty case in Louisiana during law school, and I can't get it out of my head. Is that why I keep going back to Angola prison?
All Symbolic Roads... Everyone loves comparing the U.S. to Rome. They've been doing it, in fact, for more than 200 years...
The Last Inuit of Quebec Did magic still exist? I traveled far north into Quebec to find out. Gangsta rap, whale hunts, and an old Belgian priest gave me a mixed answer.
Monkey Business In Thailand, all I wanted to do was touch a monkey. Next thing I know, I'm talking about herpes.
The Chapín I returned to Guatemala again and again as I grew into adulthood. The Chapín was always there.
On the Great Silk Road I had never heard of Uzbekistan before the Peace Corps assigned me there. It didn't matter, really. I felt so guilty for being alive that I just wanted to work somewhere, anywhere.
Study Abroad Pakistan's reputation as a cauldron of extremist violence masks the staying power of the nation's aristocracy. Consider Aitchison College...
King Me Forget London, Paris, and Moscow. To the see the epicenter of European royalty, go to Coburg, Germany.
Whistling at the Northern Lights Idling away one's youth in Iceland may seem eccentric, but the ache of nostalgia is universal.
A Nice French Red 'Some people are made for power, others for opposition. You musn't confuse the two.' A lesson in French communism.
Dining with the Stars I am well aware there's a recession, but have you tasted the $650 lunch at L'Ambroisie?
Surfing the Satellite Jordanian satellite TV is a chaotic mishmash of shows from around the globe. And a possible agent of world peace.
By Nathan Schneider

Miss Venezuela Observations from the beauty pageant that produces more international winners than any other country's. Among them, angry mobs, bedazzled jeans, and free breast implants.
The Baked Goods An American pastry chef in a French kitchen?! Sacrebleu!
Russia on My Mind In Russia, I lived in a tenement, jumped out of a moving car, and had a gun pulled on me. Of course IKEA and Starbucks had to come and ruin it all.
The Wrath of Khan I was a waitress in Austin with a pot-growing boyfriend who wanted to get married. I needed a change, and Mongolia sounded like it'd be about as big a change as I could make. I was right.
Chinese Take-Out From the Olympics to urban explosion to the rowdiness of its people, a tour of China is like a trip to 19th-century America.
Baby Talk Our justice minister is a Muslim, unmarried, and pregnant woman of North African descent. So why isn't she a symbol of diversity?
Dismissed The French tradition of Saturday classes ends this month, and I can drink on Fridays again.
Romancing the Archivist I wanted to prove that West African borders were illusions, but first I had to get into Mali's records.
Pus in Boots My parents were the doctors. But after I cut my foot in the Andaman Sea, traveled down dirty streets, and waded through a polluted river, it was time for me to operate.
Western Civ 101 For centuries Oxford remained a bastion of Western Civilization. Then came American marketing.
Let the Sunshine In The freaks come out at night. Unless it's the summer solstice on England's Glastonbury Tor.
Monkey Brain The walk from San Francisco to L.A. should have been a quiet one, but the 450 miles were deafening.
Plimped Out I went to Mozambique to write a guidebook, and ended up casting myself as George Plimpton in Ali, starring Will Smith. Would the world's greatest amateur have done any differently?
Exhibit A Crime and punishment may be a gray area, but it's painted black and white in D.C.
Anatomy of an Earthquake My apartment was just 100 miles from the epicenter of the Chinese disaster. Living now in a friend's car, in a tent city of refugees, I realize that even solid ground can't be taken for granted.
On Watching Plain People There are 20,000 Amish living in Pennsylvania. Theirs is a quiet life of German hymns, pickled foods, and buggies. And four million tourists, too.
Gray Areas Somalia had no government, and passport stamps didn't matter there. It was as if I was traveling in time to when borders were just suggestions.
A Day at the Beach I wanted to know what it was like to run an amusement park in Wildwood, New Jersey; all I got were some insurance brochures and a bank keychain.
Haitian Dreams I traveled to Haiti with the best of intentions. I found myself at a cock fight, a dodgy casino, and, for many hours, a bar that overlooked a trash-strewn beach.
The Golf Courses of Berlin Why don't Germans sleep in double beds? Why does so much travel writing depend upon peculiarity and cliché?
Tour of Duty I tried getting into Iraq the easy way first, by applying for a tourist visa. I eventually found a work-around: Iran.
The Serenader In Mexico, a street musician must deal with drunks, little sleep, and the cold. All for $12 a night.
Sixty Hours to Mexico City The flight to Mexico City only takes a few hours. That's no fun, so I took the bus. Sixty hours later...
The Quiet Italian Few locals live in Venice. The buildings are dark at night. But in the early morning, signs of city life can be found.
Mengele in Paraguay Like many Nazis, Mengele fled to South America after the war. In Paraguay, ghosts of Germany remain.
By Graeme Wood

Island Life Île aux Aigrettes was the Dodo's last home. Now scientists are trying to spare other animals there the same fate.
The Museum of Contraception and Abortion Vienna's Museum of Contraception and Abortion, which Austrian schoolkids visit on field trips.
Santa™ What sort of insanity inspires a winter trip to the Arctic Circle to meet Saint Nick? The easy answer: Christmas mania. But that's not the whole story.
Seismic Center I came to Antarctica as a garbage man. Six years in, I was sent to groom runways in the desolate East.
Boomtown on the Barents Norway is the Saudi Arabia of the North, exploiting the world's last oil and gas reserves. But as the Arctic melts and the Russians encroach, our correspondent can see the future from a cold, remote place.
Jurassic Tennis Long before tennis, there was Jeu de Paume. In Paris, some still play the 700-year-old game.
The Border I was in Cote d'Ivoire to interview a rebel commander of the civil war-torn country's upper half. I was staying in Mali to the north. But I learned that in Africa, such distinctions aren't always clear.
Greetings From Abkhazia Abkhazia was the seaside playground of Stalin and Gorbachev. Today it's empty beaches, crumbled buildings, and diseased monkeys.
By Graeme Wood

Hustling Nakamura-san Our English-language school needed money. Nakamura-san was a salaryman looking to get lucky. A plan was hatched.
A Year in Japan In Japan, detail and nuance are expected and appreciated. A series of illustrations featuring white-gloved taxi drivers, plastic-wrapped fruit, sumo wrestlers, and pink cell phones.
The Answer Was No Victor wanted to flee Cuba, but the only place he'd been was the battlefields of Angola. “Do you think you’ll make it to Spain soon?” I asked. He looked at me wearily.
Likeness of Beings Madame Tussauds brings its wax celebrities to a new branch in Washington. Our correspondent visited J. Edgar Hoover, Abraham Lincoln, and Marion Barry to find out why we still love wax museums.
What Happens in Burma... I was among 600 Americans who recently visited Burma from a cruise ship. Some say it wasn't the right thing to do. I disagree.
On the Trail of Orangutans I traveled deep into the jungles of Borneo to confront my fears and meet an orangutan, face-to-face.
Death of an Adventure Traveler On assignment in Thailand for an American travel magazine, I discovered that whitewater rafting and helicopter drops are nothing next to Mr. Benny's jewel smuggling and CIA translation work. I returned to find him...
Crisis Is Magic In Colombia, I've toured a cocaine factory, flirted with anti-guerrilla soldiers, eaten bad meat, and joined Ronald McDonald in saying "no" to  kidnapping. After a month here, I realize that sometimes things aren't as bad as they seem.
A Walk in Florence A walk through the gardens, villas, and streets of Florence that inspired Henry James.
A Lonely Heart in Bhutan The second worst travel experience I ever had was on a misbegotten trip to a marvelous place that I had returned to for all the wrong reasons.
Chasing Gauguin's Ghost The artist's critics argue that he was unpleasant and a misogynist. I don't disagree. Yet, as with a potentially dangerous lover, I followed him. To Polynesia.
This Is Not a Cruise Is responsible travel possible on Semester at Sea? Well, reports our correspondent from the lido deck, yes and no.
How To Live Forever Our correspondent journeys to an isolated region of Sardinia, barges in on very old people, and asks: How can I, too, live to be 100?
Le Musée du Fumeur A visit to a smoking museum in Paris, just as the French kick the habit.
   

JOURNEYS: COLUMNS
Questionable Tastes Journeys through the world of food and drink.
All columns >
Be Fruitful I've always made meals out of my late summer fruit binges. And this year, I was especially captivated by Italy's traditional berry and melon risottos.
By Jason Wilson


The Walking Tour A guide of unconventional places and ideas.
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The Last Walk Are cars turning human beings into quadrupeds? Or is there room for walking after all?

Foodstuffs Notes and commentary from the table.
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Cooking Local An ode to the locally-produced cookbook.
By Meg Favreau


Tony's Secret Cabinet Stories from the institutions that preserve and interpret our history and culture. All columns >
The Man Who Would Bed King? James Buchanan was the only bachelor president, William Rufus King the only single vice president. Were they Victorian chums or something more?











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