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JOURNEYS: FEATURES
On the Great Silk Road I had never heard of Uzbekistan before the Peace Corps assigned me there. It didn't matter, really. I felt so guilty for being alive that I just wanted to work somewhere, anywhere.
Study Abroad Pakistan's reputation as a cauldron of extremist violence masks the staying power of the nation's aristocracy. Consider Aitchison College...
Whistling at the Northern Lights Idling away one's youth in Iceland may seem eccentric, but the ache of nostalgia is universal.
Yellow Journalism I went to the Mustard Museum for the Midwestern ennui. I stayed for the mustard.
By EJ Levy

A Nice French Red 'Some people are made for power, others for opposition. You musn't confuse the two.' A lesson in French communism.
Licorice Whipped Now that it's legal, absinthe is supposedly 'out.' But was a taste for licorice ever really 'in'?
Dining with the Stars I am well aware there's a recession, but have you tasted the $650 lunch at L'Ambroisie?
Miss Venezuela Observations from the beauty pageant that produces more international winners than any other country's. Among them, angry mobs, bedazzled jeans, and free breast implants.
The Baked Goods An American pastry chef in a French kitchen?! Sacrebleu!
The Wrath of Khan I was a waitress in Austin with a pot-growing boyfriend who wanted to get married. I needed a change, and Mongolia sounded like it'd be about as big a change as I could make. I was right.
Chinese Take-Out From the Olympics to urban explosion to the rowdiness of its people, a tour of China is like a trip to 19th-century America.
The Port Dick Cheney Likes Find out you like the same port as Dick Cheney and Fidel Castro, and you'll realize taste is a very slippery slope.
Baby Talk Our justice minister is a Muslim, unmarried, and pregnant woman of North African descent. So why isn't she a symbol of diversity?
Dismissed The French tradition of Saturday classes ends this month, and I can drink on Fridays again.
Romancing the Archivist I wanted to prove that West African borders were illusions, but first I had to get into Mali's records.
Pus in Boots My parents were the doctors. But after I cut my foot in the Andaman Sea, traveled down dirty streets, and waded through a polluted river, it was time for me to operate.
The Lifestyle Beat There's life. And then there's lifestyle journalism.
Plimped Out I went to Mozambique to write a guidebook, and ended up casting myself as George Plimpton in Ali, starring Will Smith. Would the world's greatest amateur have done any differently?
Exhibit A Crime and punishment may be a gray area, but it's painted black and white in D.C.
By Emily Maloney

On Watching Plain People There are 20,000 Amish living in Pennsylvania. Theirs is a quiet life of German hymns, pickled foods, and buggies. And four million tourists, too.
Gray Areas Somalia had no government, and passport stamps didn't matter there. It was as if I was traveling in time to when borders were just suggestions.
Haitian Dreams I traveled to Haiti with the best of intentions. I found myself at a cock fight, a dodgy casino, and, for many hours, a bar that overlooked a trash-strewn beach.
Tour of Duty I tried getting into Iraq the easy way first, by applying for a tourist visa. I eventually found a work-around: Iran.
The Serenader In Mexico, a street musician must deal with drunks, little sleep, and the cold. All for $12 a night.
Mengele in Paraguay Like many Nazis, Mengele fled to South America after the war. In Paraguay, ghosts of Germany remain.
By Graeme Wood

The Museum of Contraception and Abortion Vienna's Museum of Contraception and Abortion, which Austrian schoolkids visit on field trips.
By Patti McCracken

Santa™ What sort of insanity inspires a winter trip to the Arctic Circle to meet Saint Nick? The easy answer: Christmas mania. But that's not the whole story.
Boomtown on the Barents Norway is the Saudi Arabia of the North, exploiting the world's last oil and gas reserves. But as the Arctic melts and the Russians encroach, our correspondent can see the future from a cold, remote place.
The Border I was in Cote d'Ivoire to interview a rebel commander of the civil war-torn country's upper half. I was staying in Mali to the north. But I learned that in Africa, such distinctions aren't always clear.
A Game Journey Horse meat, moonshine, and musk. The French are dismissive of American cuisine, but getting to the primal roots of their food isn't so pretty. Our correspondent joins a wild boar hunt.
Greetings From Abkhazia Abkhazia was the seaside playground of Stalin and Gorbachev. Today it's empty beaches, crumbled buildings, and diseased monkeys.
By Graeme Wood

A Year in Japan In Japan, detail and nuance are expected and appreciated. A series of illustrations featuring white-gloved taxi drivers, plastic-wrapped fruit, sumo wrestlers, and pink cell phones.
The Answer Was No Victor wanted to flee Cuba, but the only place he'd been was the battlefields of Angola. “Do you think you’ll make it to Spain soon?” I asked. He looked at me wearily.
Likeness of Beings Madame Tussauds brings its wax celebrities to a new branch in Washington. Our correspondent visited J. Edgar Hoover, Abraham Lincoln, and Marion Barry to find out why we still love wax museums.
By Jesse Smith

Death of an Adventure Traveler On assignment in Thailand for an American travel magazine, I discovered that whitewater rafting and helicopter drops are nothing next to Mr. Benny's jewel smuggling and CIA translation work. I returned to find him...
Crisis Is Magic In Colombia, I've toured a cocaine factory, flirted with anti-guerrilla soldiers, eaten bad meat, and joined Ronald McDonald in saying "no" to  kidnapping. After a month here, I realize that sometimes things aren't as bad as they seem.
A Lonely Heart in Bhutan The second worst travel experience I ever had was on a misbegotten trip to a marvelous place that I had returned to for all the wrong reasons.
Creating a Truth About half of the United States does not believe in evolution. Our correspondent visits a new, $27 million creationism museum in Kentucky, built just for them.
By Jesse Smith

This Is Not a Cruise Is responsible travel possible on Semester at Sea? Well, reports our correspondent from the lido deck, yes and no.
How To Live Forever Our correspondent journeys to an isolated region of Sardinia, barges in on very old people, and asks: How can I, too, live to be 100?
Le Musée du Fumeur A visit to a smoking museum in Paris, just as the French kick the habit.
By Rolf Potts

   

JOURNEYS: COLUMNS

Grand Tour

Dispatches from around the world.
King Me Forget London, Paris, and Moscow. To the see the epicenter of European royalty, go to Coburg, Germany.
By Todd Pitock
Russia on My Mind In Russia, I lived in a tenement, jumped out of a moving car, and had a gun pulled on me. Of course IKEA and Starbucks had to come and ruin it all.
By Marissa Payne
Western Civ 101 For centuries Oxford remained a bastion of Western Civilization. Then came American marketing.
By Paula Marantz Cohen
Let the Sunshine In The freaks come out at night. Unless it's the summer solstice on England's Glastonbury Tor.
By Steven Wells
Monkey Brain The walk from San Francisco to L.A. should have been a quiet one, but the 450 miles were deafening.
By Steve Wilson
A Day at the Beach I wanted to know what it was like to run an amusement park in Wildwood, New Jersey; all I got were some insurance brochures and a bank keychain.
By Jesse Smith
The Golf Courses of Berlin Why don't Germans sleep in double beds? Why does so much travel writing depend upon peculiarity and cliché?
By Michael Gorra
Sixty Hours to Mexico City The flight to Mexico City only takes a few hours. That's no fun, so I took the bus. Sixty hours later...
By Justin Nobel
The Quiet Italian Few locals live in Venice. The buildings are dark at night. But in the early morning, signs of city life can be found.
By Michael Gorra
Island Life Île aux Aigrettes was the Dodo's last home. Now scientists are trying to spare other animals there the same fate.
By Mark Daffey
Seismic Center I came to Antarctica as a garbage man. Six years in, I was sent to groom runways in the desolate East.
By Jason Anthony
Jurassic Tennis Long before tennis, there was Jeu de Paume. In Paris, some still play the 700-year-old game.
By Rolf Potts
How to Eat a Pet As a child, I had tea parties for my guinea pig. As an adult traveling in Peru, I ate one.
By Lynn Levin
What Happens in Burma... I was among 600 Americans who recently visited Burma from a cruise ship. Some say it wasn't the right thing to do. I disagree.
By Alden Jones
On the Trail of Orangutans I traveled deep into the jungles of Borneo to confront my fears and meet an orangutan, face-to-face.
By Barry Neild
A Walk in Florence A walk through the gardens, villas, and streets of Florence that inspired Henry James.
By Michael Gorra
Most Viewed
- King Me. By Todd Pitock
- Faith-Based Initiative. By Tony Perrottet
- The Sparkle in Italy's Eye. By Jason Wilson
 
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