I am hopeful that Portuguese wines will take off in the United States one day and I eagerly await the meteoric rise of Portugal’s great-value reds, either from a famed region like the Douro Valley or from lesser-known regions such as the Alentejo or Dão or Setúbal. My wait has been very much in the vein of Waiting for Godot, and it has been going on two decades now. I remain patiently optimistic.

This story is an excerpt from Planet of the Grapes Vol. 1: Alternative Reds by Jason Wilson. Smart Set Press. Get it for only $2.99 — plus check out When Wine Talk Gets Weird, a companion essay, for only 99 cents.

I’m always speaking with people who are fixated on a quixotic quest to find that “great bottle… More…