Then again, the flour tortilla has always been fighting for its identity. Its brother, the corn tortilla, gets all the glory. The corn tortilla is, first of all, older than the flour version — wheat didn’t even show up in Mexican cuisine until the Spanish brought it over in the 16th century. The corn tortilla is healthier than the flour tortilla too, because the flour tortilla requires a fat-like lard or shortening to hold it together. Hell, some people even claim that the corn tortilla is the only traditional tortilla, and that our floured friend is nothing but an American impostor. In a 1998 edition of the Boston Globe‘s Sunday magazine, authors Sheryl Julian and Julie Rosenfeld said that the flour tortilla is “flexible enough, figuratively speaking, to stray far from authentic Mexican cuisine.”

But the flour tortilla is a Mexican invention. It has a strong tradition in northern Mexico,… More…